HAD SALAD, THAN SADET, HAD THIAN, BOTTLE BEACH PLUS NEARBY BEACHES
My main Phangan page is getting pretty lengthy so after revisits in August 09 and June 2010 I kept information on new places pretty concise on that page with the idea of doing a more detailed coverage here.
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HAD SALAD (Haad Salad, Hat Salad) is in the north of Phangan's west coast (map).
That's the restaurant roof front center - views not quite as panoramic, but still pretty special.
The fringing reef out of shot to the left protects the beach from swell which sometimes is generated by the summer westerlies. From late November to April this is a lee beach.
SNORKELLING AT HAD SALAD.
Lots of people were content to snorkel around in the middle of the bay inside the fringing reef. I noticed quite a few fish in this area on my way out to the reef drop-off. The drop-off is not precipitous like many - more a steepish slope. There was a good variety of coral types along the seaward side but unfortunately not a great range or vibrancy of colour. Fish life was reasonable but not the variety, colour and numbers you see in top coral areas. Both coral and fishlife improved a fair bit along the northern headland, but cannot match nearby Ko Ma at Mae Had (which in itself is down several steps from world class).
Another caveat - steep climbs to most rooms and bungalows. Cookies access driveway comes part way down the hill from a dirt access road which runs along the top of the headland off the main paved Had Yao to Mae Had coastal road. If you can't hack slopes, most of the other beachfront midrangers like Haadland, Salad Hut and Salad Beach Resort looked pretty sweet to me with nice bungalows, gardens, pools etc.
I thought Cookies was a class act. The views are fantastic from most bungalows/rooms plus the restaurant, the service good, the food nice and at pretty normal budget bungalow prices and the pool area was a nice place to spend time. It's a step or three up from my usual basic backpacker joint, but Lady Tezza does like a bit of comfort. I picked the cheapest room, the Over Sea Hotel Room at 1200 baht high season, which included breakfast, aircon, hot water,TV with about 50 chanels, DVD, and serviced daily if you asked. At the resaurant there were 2 laptops for the internet (1baht/minute), pool towels, boxes of games, books and DVDs. To me, this was more a lower-midrange room than a flashpacker.
Value? Well right now I'm researching prices for Ko Lipe early December and can't get an aircon room, no TV, no hot water, no pool for 1200. And Had Salad is as nice as any Lipe beach - plus Cookies is better than the 2 places I'm researching.
The room at Cookies was big with enough room for another normal double matress beside our king size bed if needed. It was concrete construction which stayed cool when the aircon was off, with semi-polished floors and cool staining on the bathroom walls to give a granite appearance (the shots on the websites look like the bathrooms are plywood, not concrete). The aircon was quiet and there was 24 hours electricity. The balcony had a nice seating/table set plus a hammock to enjoy the great views. However inside could have done with some sort of seating and a few hooks and shelves for small items. The room also had its own safe deposit box.
Cookies website gives has some good pix of the various accommodation exteriors and interiors - although sawadee.com is probably better in this respect.
Our one problem was that despite requesting a pier pickup on booking backed up by an email before arrival, we had to wait about 25 minutes after someone rang Cookies for us. At least we weren't charged - pickup is usually 400 odd baht per vehicle. On departure they have scheduled songthaew taxis running down to the pier about 4 times daily for 150 baht per person.
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AROUND HAD SALAD
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From Cookies it is an easy walk to Had Kruad, Hat Thian (west) and Hat Yao to the south. A longer walk to Mae Had to the north. Chaloklum and Coral Beach on the north coast are about 6km and 9km away and are best reached by motorcycle (heaps for rent in Salad - Cookies' were going for 180 baht a day) or bicycle if you are a nut-case like tezza.
This lowest tide shot shows the beach and access to the sea are not great. However this secluded and laid back bay had quite a few guests of the longtime traveller type.
I put in the driveway out of Cookies* to the access "road" from the main coastal road. To get to Had Kruad and Had Thian it's just a matter of following this narrow rough dirt "road" to their driveways. To get to Had Yao you need to take the walking track in yellow from close to Had Thian.
*if you are not staying at Cookies don't hesitate to take the steep path up past their pool and restaurant to join their access driveway. I have done it several times, no problems. This is a thing about Thai resorts - all but top end joints don't question people cutting thru their property.
There are some real nice bungalow places behind the trees, the front rowers right on the sand. I noticed many have upgraded since my last visit and tend to have aircon etc and were asking around the 1000 mark for front row high season.
UPDATE - in Apeil 2012 I decided to stay at Mae Had for a few days. Got me a real nice bungalow at Mae Had View.
Outlook from my front row budget bungalow - 500baht with hot water. I have a TRIP REPORT with lotsa pix and details of this joint and Mae Had here.
The beach is about a 4km walk from Had Salad, but the road out of Salad has a killer hill and is a real good workout. So much so that I grabbed a bicycle at a yoga joint at the top of the hill (100 baht per day - pretty good bike for a change). The yoga place featured a collection of real sleek dudes and dudettes lounging around prior to doing and instructors' course. Hey you new-agers will also like this joint - cosmic tarrot card reading, herbal steam, reiki treatment with chakra balancing etc. Gourmets may appreciate the Thai cooking class. THE YOGA RETREAT.
OTHER YOGA JOINTS - there is quite a selection on Phangan. Matordor Trips has a list, some info on each and sublinks HERE.
To the east of Mae Had heading along the north coast of Phangan......
I shot this from a viewpoint restaurant along the road to Had Khom, an excellent place for a recovery beer or four after riding my hire bicycle up the killer hill from Chalok.
This place is about half way along the beach west of Chalok's pier shown in the previous shot. No exposed reef at low tide here - although it gets a lot shallower than in this pic. Good position with only a 5 minute walk along the beach to the heart of Chaloklum. I shot this in 2012 off a billboard further west at Mae Had - hence the 2km arrow.
This joint appears to be flashpacker/lower midrange. A couple more budget-flashpacker places further west near the end of the beach. Plenty of budget joints immediately east of Chalok's pier.
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THAN SADET
For the second part of the my August 2009 Phangan trip I went across to Than Sadet on the east coast, a place I've visited several times before on daytrips. The word on the forums is that Mai Pen Rai on Had Sadet is the place to stay.
Than Sadet actually refers to the small river which flows out at the southern end of the beach.
The bungalows at the beach have a songthaew taxi which takes off from Teep's Than Sadet Travel Agency in Thong Sala just across from the piers at 1330. This cost 150baht per passenger. Mai Pen Rai can arrange transfers at other times for 800 per vehicle. The road up into the highlands has more paving now but is still super rough and steep in parts. I still don't recommend it for amateur motorcyclists although plenty were doing it.
You can also access Had Sadet from Had Rin by longtail or the on Samui-Thong Nai Pan ferry.
Bear right past the bungalows for about 50 m and then walk up the slope to Tree House Phangan's restaurant at neighbouring Had Thong Reng.
That's the Phangan east coast ferry which runs across to Samui and back each day nosing into the beach. For details see Phangan Part One towards the bottom of the page and Mai Pen Rai's access page (it has a shot of the slightly smaller ferry which seemed to alternate with this one).
Not sure about value - this was a backpacker not flashpacker standard room as far as amenities were concerned and at 650 baht (no brekka) was pretty expensive. But what price do you add for the views and the funky artiness of design? To tell the truth I'd easily add 150 to the typical high-season 500baht Andaman bungalow.
Note that each bungalow is individually designed. Quite a few have lofts and there are plenty of family bungalows. Mai Pen Rai's website shows dozens of pictures of interiors and exteriors.
UPDATE - when I stayed a few days here in April 2012 JS Hut was not operating. A frequent Sadet visitor told me the lady who runs it only opens 4 months of the year. I figure they are probably the busiest 4 months - with this area's better weather giving a second high season in July/August, I'm thinking those 2 months plus January and February. The place was certainly open in August 2009.
UPDATE MARCH 2010 - my friend Eddie made this comment: "PLAAS - Did you see the inside of Plaas bungalow?? Worth atleast 1000 baht but available for 300 to 400 baht."
So I made a point of staying at Plaas in April 2012. My 450baht bungalow was huge, had a very nice polished wood interior and tinted glass sliding doors. Plus a huge bathroom with a BATHTUB. I Noticed Plaas has family bungalows, often absent at beach bungalow places (but not at Mai Pen Rai who's variety of bungalows is mind-boggling. I have lotsa info and pix of Plaas and general Sadet from my trip on the PHANGAN TRIP REPORT PAGE.
Outlook from my Plaas' bungalow April 2012
A fair few daytrip boats put into Sadet making for some longtail noise but also some interesting people watching - particularly the rich dudes and their babes/hot daughters who hop off the speedboats. Most daytrippers walk up to the falls, grab some sun or swim time on the beach and take a meal or snack in the restaurants. Daytrippers might note that the most obvious of these in the middle of the beach is considerably dearer than the ones at both ends and way dearer than Plaas' or Silver Cliff's.
SNORKELLING AT THAN SADET
Coral does not like fresh or less than pristinely clear water. For that reason I gave checking the bay at Sadet the big miss - the river water flowing into the bay was a bit murky. Neighbouring Had Thong Reng had much clearer water and no appreciable stream flowing into it. There was some coral of various types off the rocks both sides of the bay but disappointing in having little variety and no vibrancy in colour. Ditto fish life.
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AROUND THAN SADET
email - sunshine@tree-house.org
UPDATE JANUARY 2012 - I just got news that Tree House has lost the lease to their land - the lease-holders have sold out to an upmarket developer.
Abandoned Thong Reng restaurant - April 2012
Hide on High Jewelry and Bar - way up on the hilltop 10 minutes northwest of the beach - very laid back scenic joint, as is Viewpoint Restaurant and Bungalows nearby. See the Phangan TRIP REPORT page via the index for more info.
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HAD THIAN (TIEN) EAST COAST
I was so taken with the look of Had Thian when my Thong Nai Pan to Samui ferry called in August 2009 that I decided to spend some time there next Phangan visit - June 2010. The Sanctuary Resort beachfront restaurant against the headland. FAMILY RESORT's bungalows are adjacnet to the right. There is another bungalow place behind the rocks at far right plus one hidden by the trees mid beach. BEAM where I have stayed is on the lower slopes about 200m behind the beach just left of that saddle (right of image).
Those "rocks" in the water starting mid-beach are actually unexpectedly good coral - this is one easy place to snorkel off the beach. Swimming is good too because excessive shallowness at low tide is not a problem. There is a neat sunbathing platform mid-bay hidden by the tree front right of pic. The sand is not the super-fine stuff found on some Phangan beaches. Cute Had Wai Nam is a 5 minute walk across that low saddle right of shot - bigger but still attractive Had Yuan East Coast is less than 15 minutes trek by good track behind the camera.
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Note new type of longtail hull, pretty common in Phangan's se corner. Longtails are the main form of access - you come in from Had Rin East and will be asked anything from 300 down per boat. I managed 200, no bargain. An old guy hangs around just to the left of frame and makes regular runs down to Had Rin for a lesser amount. There is a vehicle track into Thian now but I understand it is a shocker - no visitors I saw were coming in by vehicle and there were no daytripper motorcyclists.
There is a walking track which meets the one out of Had Yuan further south and treks up over the very high steep mountain to Had Rin. I tried to find it at Had Yuan but had no luck in early visits. Finally did the trek - 90/120mins each way - track very steep in parts but well defined once past the first 30m. Okay view of YUAN on a short detour at top but couldn't find any good overviews of HAD RIN. Details re finding the start HAD YUAN END about 15% down this page.
UPDATE MARCH 2017. I stayed a few days at Sanctuary.
The place was pretty full but I managed to get a bed in their DORM - 350baht which is a bit expensive but commensurate to other accommodation at this joint. And this is the cleanest and most spacious dorm of the hundreds I've stayed in. Friendly too - those new-agers and health nerds no attitude.
The restaurant was as atmospheric as ever (it's not as dark as this - I set my elcheapo camera to show the outside outlook),
Beam hasn't a website at time of writing - Ph 66(0)869 439 294
I passed this one up on account I had a heap of washing to do which is hard with an outside bathroom - I got a bigger and very good 250 baht with bathroom joint adjacent. Perspective - night before I'd stayed in a 250 baht Had Rin fleapit with outside bathroom, thumpa thumpa party music untill 4am and the Had Yai chapter of the Harley Club blasting their hogs up the adjacent alley in the early hours. Night before that a slightly inferior bungalow for 500 (twice as much!) on Ko Muk - super low season, I was the only guest in the whole resort! And I had to bargain that down from 1000. 1000! Tell them they're dreaming. I did.
UPDATE MARCH 2017 - BEAM was full when I called by. I blame these blog dudes banging on about how nice this 3 beach area is.
In 2017 I wanted to stay here but there was no staff around - a sign said book on FACEBOOK or ring a phone #. Too complicated - I kept walking. Interestingly, only about a third of the bungalows seemed to be occupied in what appeared a fully booked 3 beach area - dunno how hot THAT business plan is.
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AROUND HAD THIAN
HAD WAI/WHY NAM
Booked out in MARCH 2017 except for their 300baht dorm. I should have gone for it - I have always wanted to stay on this beach and enjoyed my later stay in nearby SANCTUARY'S dorm
HAD YUAN
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In MARCH 2017 I stayed in a bungalow high above the southern headland walkway at CLUB BAR ENGAGE which is a renamed GOOD HOPE. Above is the view from their rather nice restaurant. Joint has a very outgoing Dutch host - okay budget bungalows and reasonable food/drink prices.
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HAD KHUAD - BOTTLE BEACH
Having called in several times on daytrips and trying unsuccessfully to cycle in from Chaloklum one time (hur hur hur) I finally got to stay at Bottle Beach in June 2010.
I longtailed up here from Had Thian for 1000, bargained down from a 2500 ask - 1000 is a fair bit but it was a 20 minute trip and the alternative (longtail back to Had Rin - songthaews to - longtail from Chalok Lum) would have taken hours and cost maybe half that.
The viewpoint from which the panoramic shot was taken (60% down page on Phangan part 1) is top of highest peak in background
I thought the adjacent oft-praised Smile Resort looked pretty good too - sweet bungalows, nice beach corner restaurant with slightly higher prices.
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I trekked across to Bottle Beach from Thong Nai Pan in April 2012 to see what had changed. Not much - the most significant was probably these new concrete aircon bungalows at Bottle Beach One replacing a couple of the beachside fan ones.
I HAVE MORE INFO AND SOME OTHER PIX ON THE BOTTLE BEACH TRIP REPORT HERE
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UPDATE JULY 2021
This page is getting dated - my last visit was in 2017.
Probably the best update I've seen is from STEWART at TRAVELFISH/COUCHFISH - "A STROLL AROUNG KO PHANGAN"
This gives a new perspective and names to many of the places I mention. The biggest change since I visited seems to be on the unsettled east coast, where tracks to some lonely beaches seem new/much better.
This gives a new perspective and names to many of the places I mention. The biggest change since I visited seems to be on the unsettled east coast, where tracks to some lonely beaches seem new/much better.
Note there are more pix of Sadet, Salad and many of the other places on this page on the Phangan Part One page - plus info/pix on a lot of other Phangan locations, transport info, when to go etc.
The Phangan TRIP REPORT PAGE also has o a lot more info, maps and pix of these places.
If you have any questions, please ask them in THE FORUM rather than below. I don't get a chance to check all threads daily, but unless I'm travelling I'll try to monitor THE FORUM regularly, If you see mistakes or have additional info, please post it below.
The Phangan TRIP REPORT PAGE also has o a lot more info, maps and pix of these places.
If you have any questions, please ask them in THE FORUM rather than below. I don't get a chance to check all threads daily, but unless I'm travelling I'll try to monitor THE FORUM regularly, If you see mistakes or have additional info, please post it below.
1 comment:
nice place but you are in Thiland and want to detox your body and mind than you need to visit
http://www.orionhealing.com/detox-in-thailand/
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